The Story of the Suisun Valley Fund

July 20th, 2010

Written for Suisun Valley Vintners and Grape Growers, by Jack Batson

The Suisun Valley grew up with the infant state of California.  It provided meat and grain to the miners of the 19th Century gold and silver rushes.  Later, with the advent of the Transcontinental Railroad which ran through its eastern edge, and especially with the invention of refrigeration, it provided early ripened fruit to a colder Midwest and East.  The valley was laced with rail lines and packing sheds.  The coming of the automobile brought the famed Lincoln Highway (US 40) through the valley, connecting San Francisco to New York City.  Business was brisk.

In 1957 the US Department of Reclamation completed Monticello Dam, creating Lake Berryessa.  The Solano Irrigation District (SID) delivered the water, and with the new supply, the Suisun Valley added a second growing season to its production.

Yet trouble was mounting.  Highway 40 turned into US Interstate 80, and the population of the Bay Area began growing east.  The Sacramento Valley began growing competitive crops and often used more modern methods in larger scale.  Suisun Valley’s principal fruit crop, canning pears, fell from favor.  Processing plants closed one by one.  And the valley was a developer’s “dream come true” with 7,000 acres of flat, well watered land adjacent to a major transportation artery.  Several land speculators began buying land, and the City of Fairfield annexed parts of the valley.

Still, the Solano Irrigation District fought back.  In 1974 it sued the city to protect its rate base, and the two agencies signed an agreement stating that neither would provide water to the valley for urban purposes through 2006.

There were encouragements.  In 1982 the valley received its own American Viticultural Area (AVA) designation, followed by its inclusion in the prestigious “North Coast”AVA along with Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino Counties in the next year. But as the 20th Century neared its end, development pressures and the loss of profitability of the valley’s family farms began to come together.  If farmers could not make money, development would become inevitable and the valley’s rich soils would be lost to a sea of housetops.   The bankruptcy of the Tri Valley Growers coop in 2000 hit the valley’s growers hard; their accumulated retained earnings, usually earmarked for their retirement, disappeared.  Ominously, the Solano Irrigation District hinted that it might not renew the 1974 agreement when it expired in 2006.

The City of Fairfield took notice.  Having local agriculture nearby was seen as a city amenity.  Its beauty was widely appreciated.  People enjoyed driving through the valley, buying fruits and vegetables and sampling the local wines.  City leadership began to think strategically.  Their 1992 General Plan spoke directly of the need to protect the valley.  They understood that in the long term, valley farmers had to become profitable for the valley to survive development pressure.  Who would buy the valley’s produce?  The rich Bay Area, only 30 minutes’ driving time away, offered great possibilities.  The emergence of people highly motivated to eat “fresh and local” foods – “foodies” – was encouraging.  More and more people sought the “organic” label.  Interstate 80 carried almost 200,000 automobiles through the valley every day.  What if even one percent – 2,000 autos – would stop and buy some fruit or wine?  There were causes for optimism, but the “highest and best use” still pointed to development.  The valley needed a catalyst to bring the possibilities together.

In 2000 Rick Wood, Manager of the Water Division for the city of Fairfield, entered into negotiations with SID and both parties agreed to give the valley farmers another chance.  Wood’s idea was as innovative as it was historic.  The “Second Amended Agreement” of 2002 extended the term of the 1974 agreement from 2006 through 2010, and created the “Suisun Valley Fund” and the “Suisun Valley Fund Advisory Committee,” to run the fund.  Both parties would put $100,000 per year into the fund for eight more years and adjust the yearly amount for inflation.  The $1,600,000+ would be spent to promote the marketability of valley produce and to create other mechanisms to “preserve and enhance” valley agriculture that would continue past 2010.  The Committee would be composed of two members each from the Fairfield City Council and the Solano Irrigation District, and three valley landowner/growers chosen by the two agencies.  The five Fairfield council members who held office and voted to approve the funding of Suisun Valley Fund were Jack Batson, Karin MacMillan, Harry Price, Marilyn Farley, and John English.

The Fund, now nearing its end, has made a significant impact.  Its accomplishments include the following:

  1. Funding for the start-up and development of the Suisun Valley Grape Growers Association (now Suisun Valley Vintners and Growers Association).
  2. Organization of Suisun Valley retailers into a Harvest Trails group (now merged with the Suisun Valley Vintners and Growers Association).
  3. Funding for the start-up and development of the Suisun Valley Wine Cooperative (winery and tasting room for smaller production growers).
  4. Professional design and production of a logo and Harvest Trails map/brochure.
  5. Three weather stations for real-time data and microclimate analysis (added to Solano Irrigation District’s three stations making a total of six stations in the valley.  The data is now adequate for microclimate studies like other major wine grape growing areas).
  6. Space on a new I-80 freeway sign and reader board at the Fairfield Auto Mall (i.e., the Fairfield “Jelly Belly” sign), inviting travelers to “Visit Suisun Valley.”
  7. Directional “wayfaring” signs at a dozen intersections in Suisun Valley.
  8. Funding for a “Mother Earth” public art piece at the Abernathy Road/Rockville Road entryway roundabout (with Solano County).
  9. Funding for an influential “Agricultural Vision and Economic Innovation for Suisun Valley” report by the American Farmland Trust Consulting (March 2007), as part of background studies for the Solano County General Plan Update (with Solano County), resulting in Solano County expressly supporting the continuation and facilitation of agriculture in the valley in its new General Plan.
  10. Employing the services of an “Agricultural Ambassador” for outreach to Suisun Valley growers and to staff Committee projects.
  11. Web page design and maintenance (www.SuisunValley.com).
  12. Promotional events, notably “Fun Family Farm Days,” staffed by the Agricultural Ambassador and volunteers.
  13. New relationships within the valley and new emerging leadership among the landowners, to face the future.
  14. The creation of a “Vision for the future of farming in Suisun Valley” (incorporated into Solano County’s Suisun Valley Strategic Plan, February 2010):

Suisun Valley is a unique farming region that supports profitable family farms and quality of life for all its residents.  It is a destination for tourists seeking world class wine, identifiable Suisun Valley farm products and a beautiful agricultural landscape with no fallow land. The SV appellation is so famous that it creates new markets and increases demand for Suisun Valley wine and other farm products outside of the region.

This vision statement summarizes the goals of the Suisun Valley Advisory Committee.  It has been endorsed by the Committee, the city of Fairfield, the Solano Irrigation District, the Suisun Valley Fruit Growers’ Association, the Suisun Valley Vintners and Growers Association, the Solano County Farm Bureau, the City of Suisun, the Solano Land Trust, and the Solano County Agriculture Advisory Committee, and now, Solano County.

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Mangels Family Contributes to Suisun Valley’s Rich Wine Grapegrowing and Winemaking History

July 13th, 2010

Three generations in the Mangels Family: Bompa, Louis Mangles, and Uncle Claus.

Louis Mangels arrived in New York City in 1866, with his parents. At 14 years of age, he had just emigrated from Germany and immediately left for the West Coast, by way of Panama. There was a distant connection to the Spreckles, another German family that was already experiencing financial success in San Francisco. They arrived on June 22, 1866.

During the next ten years, through the Spreckles connection, Louis learned to be a cooper. He also studied and saved enough money to buy 240 acres of land in 1876. He planted grape vines right away. By the following year, Claus Mangels was born to the Louis Mangels family.

Thirteen years later, in 1889, Louis expanded his land holdings. Already owning the 240 acres in Suisun Valley, he bought the Schultz brothers’ business, stock, cooperage, and equipment. He continued working the ranch; and by 1893, Louis Mangels decided that it was time to build his first wine cellar. Solano Winery went on to become one of the largest producing wineries in the state of California.

By 1906, the Mangels winery had grown to produce 500,000 gallons of wine a year. Just the year before, Louis’s son Claus married Cecelia Rohwer. The family then took another interesting road to expansion. In 1910, Louis Mangels brought his two oldest sons into a business partnership, naming the company Mangels & Sons. By 1920, Prohibition hit the United States, with Mangles & Sons being only one of seven wineries allowed to continue to legally produce wine for the government. A lot of the tonnage was shipped to the East Coast, to large eastern markets. Within a year, Claus Mangels became sole proprietor.

When it became unprofitable to ship grapes to the East Coast, a partnership with the Colonial Grape Products Company was formed. This entity became known as the Solano Grape Products Company. By 1932, the Solano Grape Products Company was incorporated under the name of Solano Winery.

After Prohibition in 1933, the government began to bond wineries. “Solano Winery” became Bonded Winery Number 42. Claus planted more vineyards and leased another 153 acres with a Bonzi Vineyard at Monticello, in Napa County. After the repeal, the Solano Winery’s wine cellar was well stocked with many products, including both aged (fortified) sweet and dry wines. The building and cooperage were rented from Claus Mangels. Wine sales were brisk, most especially the Solano Winery “house” brand. This led to the selection of its own name, which became “Chief Solano.” Other successful brands were Cordelia, Solano, and C. R. Mangels.

In just two years, the market for the Mangels wines had spread over the nation and to foreign lands. In 1936, Claus Mangels purchased the stock formerly held by the Colonial Grape Products Company, which gave him 97 percent of the stock held in the company. One year later, Solano Winery was producing 350,000 gallons of wine a year, crushing nearly all of the grapes in Suisun Valley. In order to continue succeeding, Gary’s family sold its interest in the winery to Sunnyside by 1943, since they were faced with a need to upgrade equipment, yet again. Claus Mangels sold the recently renovated Solano Winery property, with about eight acres of land, to partner Horace O. Lanza of Sunnyside. Current production at that time was between 450,000 and 500,000 gallons of wine a year.

Horace O. Lanza was an official of the California Grape Products Company of San Francisco, and had been a business partner for six years during prohibition. With the sale, however, Clause maintained his home, vineyards, and other property. By 1950, the winery was no longer in operation.

Claus passed away in 1950, and the family property passed on to Gary’s father. His dad was more interested in livestock, and years prior to his own father’s passing, had bought a ranch. Hi Father’s oldest sister told him that she thought he needed to replant the vines, but for 30 years, until 1980 or 1981, he continued to grow great quantities of grapes that were sold to Sebastiani and Christian Brothers.

Growing up, Gary could tell that his dad didn’t really care all that much for the grapes, and Gary didn’t spend much of his childhood helping to tend to them. By1988, when Gary purchased the land that would eventually become Mangels Vineyards, it had become a pear orchard.

Gary removed the orchard and planted permanent pasture, which turned out not to be successful use of the land. After talking to neighbors and learning about their grape growing experiences, Gary decided to plant grapes. He planted the first vines in 1991. He chose to plant Merlot because he knew that, at that time, the market was more commodities focused, and there was great demand for Merlot. When the market fell off after the heyday of the 90s, Gary realized that the positive outcome to that situation would be that he could take the time to learn which varieties were really best suited to his terroir. He understood that there was a quality issue with the rootstock he had used in his loam. He replanted, changing the rootstock and the clones, and splitting his planting evenly between Merlot and Syrah.

By 2000, Gary first started thinking about making wine. At one point, he and his son, Nick, made some wine together and Gary really gained an appreciation for the art of winemaking. When he learned that Gina Oberti, whose family owns a Petite Sirah vineyard in Suisun Valley, had graduated from Fresno State University with a degree in Enology, Gary waited for her to return to California from an internship in New Zealand. Upon return, Gary proposed to her that they begin making wine together. First, they made some wine from the Oberti block. They added Syrah the next year. The following year, they began working with white varieties. This wine was strictly non-commercial, but led to them forming a business partnership and making wine together, which is now available under the label of Mangels Vineyards.

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The Earliest History of Grape Growing in Suisun Valley

July 1st, 2010

[Image courtesy of Gary Mangels]

Mae Fisher Purcell wrote for the Eighteenth Anniversary Edition And All County Chamber of Commerce Atlas of Solano County, Information-Section 4-1935, in a story entitled, “Claus Mangels Renowned Solano Winery and Notable Estate is Beauty Spot of Suisun Valley:

When Omar Khayyam, poet-tentmaker, wrote in his immortal Rubalyat the lines… “I oft times wonder what the vintners buy one half so precious as the stuff they sell,” the Persian bard must have had a prophetic vision that some day in a distant land a man named Mangels would produced a vintage fit for the gods.

It’s fitting to mention the very first grape growing to begin in Solano County, in order to have an overall perspective for its relationship to Suisun Valley, as it began in neighboring Green Valley:

[Image courtesy of Gary Mangels of Arnold Penoui, March 5, 1937]

  • 1858 ~ An Austrian native John Votypke started to grow grapes in Green Valley. His vineyard property was located at the foot of the valley peaks, know as Twin Sisters. By 1863, he began to also make wine.
  • 1860 ~ Brothers Henry and Claus Schultz planted a vineyard in the same rich valley, and also started a winery, C. Schultz & Co., operating it for about 20 years.

[Image courtesy: Gary Mangels of the Mangels home in 1937]

  • 1866 ~ Louis Mangels arrived in New York City from Germany, immigrating with his parents.
    • Immediately left for the West Coast by way of Panama, arriving on June 22, 1866.
    • During the next ten years, he studied and saved enough money to buy 240 acres of land.
    • At that time, the view from the ranch allowed Louis and his family to look straight to San Pablo Bay, on a clear day.
    • 1877 ~ Claus Mangels was born to Mr. & Mrs. Louis Mangels.
  • 1880 ~ Louis Mangels, who already had 240 acres of vines in Suisun Valley, bought the Schultz brothers’ business, stock, cooperage, and equipment.
  • 1893 ~ Louis Mangels built his first wine cellar, which was to become  Solano Winery (Bonded Winery #42).
    • Louis planted more vineyards.
    • Also had a lease for 153 acres with a Bonzi vineyard at Monticello, in Napa County.
  • 1905 ~ Claus Mangels married Cecelia Rohwer.
  • 1906 ~ Mangels winery had grown to produce 500,000 gallons of wine a year.
  • 1910 ~ Mangels brought his two oldest sons into a business partnership with him, naming the company Mangels & Sons.
  • 1920 ~ Prohibition hit the US. It is a very little known fact that Mangles & Sons was one of the very few wineries to be allowed to produce wine for the government. A lot of the tonnage was shipped to the East Coast to large eastern markets.

The list gathered to date, with much research going into it over the years.

  1. Beringer Brothers, Napa Valley (1876 to present)
  2. Christian Brothers, Napa Valley (1882 to 1989)
  3. Concannon Vineyards, Livermore Valley (1883 to present)
  4. Sacred Heart Novitiate Winery, Los Gatos, CA (1888 to 1986)
  5. Solano Winery, Green Valley, Solano County (1893 to early 1950s)
  6. St. Stanislaus Novitiate, St. Louis, Missouri (1898)
  7. Beaulieu Vineyards, Napa Valley (1900 to present)
  8. San Antonio Winery, Los Angeles, CA (1917 to present)

Back to the Suisun Valley Historical Time Line

  • 1921 ~ Claus Mangels became sole proprietor. When it became unprofitable to ship grapes to the East Coast, a partnership with the Colonial Grape Products Company was formed. This entity became known as the Solano Grape Products Company.
  • 1932 ~ The Solano Grape Products Company was incorporated under the name of Solano Winery.

[Image courtesy of Gary Mangels of Packy Glassoff, March 5, 1937]

  • 1933 ~ With the repeal of Prohibition, the Solano wine cellar was well stocked with many products, including both aged (fortified) sweet and dry wines.
    • The building and cooperage were rented from Claus Mangels.
    • Wine sales were brisk, most especially the Solano Winery “house” brand. This led to the selection of its own name, which became “Chief Solano.” (See previous blog entry for Chief Solano, or click here.) Other successful brands were:
      • Cordelia
      • Solano
      • C. R. Mangels
    • 1935 ~ By now the market for the Mangels wines had spread over the nation and foreign lands.
    • 1936 ~ Claus Mangels purchased the stock formerly held by the Colonial Grape Products Company, which gave him 97 percent of the stock held in the company.
    • 1937 ~ Solano Winery now produces 350,000 gallons of wine a year, crushing nearly all of the grapes in Suisun Valley.
      • Grapes grown:
        • Burgundy
        • Mataro
        • Pinot
        • Cabernet
      • Dry wines made:
        • Sauternes
        • Chablis
        • Riesling
        • Barbera
        • Claret
        • Zinfandel
        • Burgundy
        • Mataro
        • Pinot
        • Cabernet
      • Fine sweet wines:
        • Sherry (150,000 gallons a year)
        • Port
        • Muscatel
        • Angelica
        • Tokay
    • 1943 ~ Claus Mangels sells the recently renovated Solano Winery property, and about eight acres of land, to a partner Horace O. Lanza.
      • Claus maintained his home, vineyards, and other property. Current production was between 450,000 and 500,000 gallons of wine a year.
      • Horace O. Lanza was an official of the California Grape Products Company of San Francisco, and was a business partner for six years during prohibition.
    • By 1950 ~ According to Gary Mangles, the winery was no longer in operation.

This blog posting has been made possible through the generous sharing of Gary Mangels, Mangels Vineyards. The information to follow has been taken from the following sources:

  • Solano Republican, Eighteenth Anniversary Edition And All County Chamber of Commerce Atlas of Solano County, Information-Section 4-1935
  • Wines & Vines, July 1937
  • The Solano Republican, Thursday, February 4, 1943
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